Japan Woodworker sells the brush after all

Greg Merritt at Hillbilly Daiku was kind enough to let me know that Japan Woodworker (JW) does indeed sell the brushes for Uzukuri. It only looked to me like they did not. The reason being that JW calls them texturing brushes, and does not use the Japanese word.

For what it’s worth, I think they appear to be over priced. Maybe after I try one that opinion will change. For now, I just can’t part with that kind of money for a brush. Perhaps I’ll never know what a joy they are to use.

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Been a while.

Fell in love with:
Practice with the Uzukuri-Part 1

Seems like a cool way to use less than perfect wood and avoid all the perfect finish issues. Japan Woodworker stopped selling the brushes, so that left me no choice but to improvise. I tried all the wire brushes and coarse sandpaper I had in the shop and had mixed results. Pine is easy to abrade. Fir is much harder, even in the early wood. I got better results with a medium wire wheel at about 45 degrees to the grain, followed by a flap sander with [maybe] 150 grit paper.

 

It’s good enough for now.

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Fixed my Table Saw crosscut sled…

Short story:  I have a simple sled to square off plywood pieces.

 

Simple TS Sled

Simple TS Sled

 

The slot was loose, REALLY loose. To fix it, I popped some #6 flat head screws into the [wooden] bar and, after tweaking and filing, the slot fit’s very well.

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There’s more on Lumberjocks:

http://lumberjocks.com/trophyjoe/blog/88418

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Blogging is overrated.

I don’t really like doing this. Other prople’s stuff I can really enjoy, but putting one’s self out there is not easy or fun. Maybe that’s why I do so little of it? Duh!

I guess it will help if I get better with WordPress. It’s just so confusing.

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Summer is just about over…

But it has been eventful.

The furnace is in the basement along with my woodworking shop and that means the furnace distributes dust throughout the building. So, in June, I took delivery of a custom filter for the cold air return.

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There are the standard one-inch “pre-filters” and behind those there are 3-inch filters (green) for the fines.

I plan on running the furnace blower in fan-only mode to act as an air cleaner. This will allow me to work in the old ribbon space and keep the dust from getting everywhere. The dusty air will be drawn through the filters and pushed into the “clean” floor above. As long as the blower is on, the pressure difference will also keep the dust from migrating upstairs. Also, because the blower won’t be on 24/7, I plan to close off the stairway with a “curtain” like this:

Curtian wall

All filters are standard and, individually, are much less expensive than the filters on the Delta or JDS style of cleaner. The nine filters here will cost about $100 to replace. That’s still only slightly more than replacing both filters on my Delta Air Cleaner.

I wanted to relocate the furnace upstairs and avoid all this. However, since this is a commercial building, the permit process involves “re-engineering” the heating system. I was told not to ask how much that would cost; if you need to ask, you can’t afford it. It’s a real joke. Getting a permit to replace the furnace in its original location was easy–no questions asked. Go figure.

* * * * * * *

And the next day, I was finally able to unload the first of the machines from our defunct ribbon making operation.

Out the door on skids and pipes, just like the ancient Egyptians:IMG_1203

Good bye Ludlow typecasting machine:

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Leaving a nice little opening:

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Now I must get rid of the other 90% of that old junk. Working on it.

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Q&D jig for sharpening planer blades

Once in a while, I do a bit of woodworking for the trophy shop. On Tuesday, Bert tells me I need to make a custom base, by Friday no less. It’s a block 9.25″ square and 2.25″ high. I’m all out of 10/4 walnut, so I have to laminate. For that, my thicknesser needs new blades or, at the very least, sharp blades. I’ve been looking at the Deulen jig and just haven’t pulled the trigger. So I’ll make something using alum angle. (The picture shows two pieces, but I only used one piece of angle)

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The jig, mocked up with tape.IMG_1636

The rush is on, so the jig will just sit in the slot on the table saw.IMG_1635

Drill a few holes, tap some threads.IMG_1642

Some brass screws and the jig is done.IMG_1665

Well, not quite. Seems the sides of are not exactly equal, making the jig ineffective. Take the blades off, trim the angle and put the blades back on:IMG_1661

Ready to sharpen. I’ve got four grits of diamond here. The black tool is very coarse. The middle plate has medium and fine. The top one is 1000 grit. I used it because I had it.IMG_1662z

A nice even secondary bevel.IMG_1663IMG_1664

Good enough — smooth with just a few ridges from what’s left of the nicks in the blades.IMG_1670

I’m darn’ impressed with myself and this jig. While it is certainly not as beautiful as a chunk of tropical wood with brass inserts, it’s not to shabby for two hours. Oh yeah, the custom base is done and it isn’t even Friday yet.

Wouldn’t it be loverly if pieces came out of this machine surfaced and lacquered?IMG_1673

There is really only one thing that needs fixing. The blades are not supported at the ends. This allowed some flexing. I can fix this with four more screws or come up with some sort of stiffener plate (like the ones in the planer).

PS: working on this post has sparked a couple ideas to make this jig much better. More on that a bit later.

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It’s worse than I expected, but only a little.

I’m not complaining, but this deal has a few worts. I have no use for the jointer, so that’s for sale. The table saw is intriguing. Do I want to use a tilting table saw?  It’s not a Unisaw, but the top is the same size. There is no provision for extensions which makes sense. Tilting the table would be bad enough without extensions.

TS illustration00E0E_fuYu44iFdkJ_600x450

 

Then there’s the motor. It’s an old B-Line 12/24 amp. Cast iron housing; It must weigh 75 lbs. I don’t have  a 110 circuit that can take 24a. To use 220v, I’ll need a proper switch.   So this gets shelved in favor of a newer, lighter motor. I have a 1hp on the shelf; guess I’ll use it here.

Motor

 

And, then there’s the stand:

base

This is really awful. The original TS stand is recognizable but two of the flare legs have been butchered, presumably because the previous owner thought it would make it easier to add casters. The angle iron addition was welded on and that is where the jointer sat.  I plan on cutting that off. To fix the stand, I’ll put the stumps on the rear and weld on a bracket to level it. Easier to hide the eyesore than to restore.

All this because I had to have that tenoning jig.

 

 

 

 

 

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